Srinagar, Kashmir

Tuesday, May 14, 1929

This morning while at breakfast we discovered that one doesn’t have to leave his dunga boat to see shops in the city or to buy anything at all. Somehow, about every merchant in the city learned of our presence and had his coolies paddle him out to see us. Some had silks and embroideries, some paper machet work, others fruits, groceries, a barber, silver and brass work, wood carving, and vegetable boats. They lined up in front of our windows and when we appeared, they all began to squawk. Had a terrible time getting rid of them. Let one man bring his stuff in, and he unpacked it all. Had a big pile of beautiful doilies, napkins, table and bed cloths, beautiful shawls—all worth plenty at home and selling for a song here. I picked out a table set of 13 embroidered pieces, a lovely bit of work, and held out for 13 rupees. The old boy died slowly and it took him a half hour to come down from one price of 18 rupees to my price. It is really a splendid bargain at 13, or $4.80.

Abdulla was right on the job to see that we weren’t stung. At last most were cleared away and we got in our little shikara and set out for town. In hops Abdulla to be our right-hand man. Round we turn and send him through a window, telling him to make himself scarce till noon. Off we went down one canal and up another, Mort at the rudder and the boat going from one side of the canal to the other, nearly running other boats down and in turn nearly getting run down. Frank tried his hand and was a little better.

We reached the river and went down a quarter-mile before landing and visiting some stores for post cards, envelopes, etc. Went in a fur store. Beautiful skins awfully cheap. Silver foxes at 40 rupees ($14.80); white weasel scarf with black tassel edges @ 49 R; white weasel skins at 2–8 (92¢); leopard skin with head 80R ($19.60);L’Hasa fox fur @ 25R ($9.25)—and at home the prices would be at least three times more. Things here are dirt cheap if you watch your bargains, and the workmanship is fine. I doubt if you can find such gorgeous handwork anywhere except in China [where women were valued even less than in India].

After lunch an even larger assembly of merchants’ boats gathered at our windows and we saw what each had to offer, got their card, and sent them on after an argument usually ending by forcibly pushing them away to make room for the next. Had a fine afternoon of arguments and finally Frank and I went with one to see some carved boxes he had in his shop. Good old pesky Abdulla was right along with us. The man tried to sell us everything in his shop, and he did have some beautiful things, but wanted too much for his carved boxes. Some wood tables and trays were gorgeous and sold for $4.25 and $3.50. We left without buying a darned thing, and so he didn’t take us back in his boat. Abdulla led us through interesting bazaars and back to home sweet home, where Mort had been pestered by vendors all the time we were gone.

The chances are that we shall move on up into the lakes tomorrow. It is cold and rainy tonight.

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