Srinagar, Kashmir

Tuesday, June 4, 1929

We were well on our way before we came to for breakfast. Have to have five trackers because of the flooded river. We are almost to the Sixth Bridge now and the coolies are sure laboring to get this thing upstream.

LATER: We all left the boat near the Third Bridge—Frank and Abdulla going to the Bund, and Mort and I to Abdulah & G. Modt near the Third Bridge to get our boxes. It is necessary to enter from the river and the chikari men sure tried to “do” us royally but we finally got one for one anna. The proprietor had gone up to Ganderbal with our boxes and was not yet back.

Walking down to our old parking spot in the canal near the First Bridge we were surprised to find the boat had not yet arrived. After a long wait we walked up the bank. A man came up and introduced himself as having met Frank the other day and wanted to know if we were his friends.  We remembered the man as having told Frank how much we were being gypped out of in everything we bought up here. Knocking his own people had put a bad taste in our mouths even before we saw him. However, he said the Mission School he attended asked its graduates to go out and warn tourists against those hawkers, etc. up here who have no scruples with regard to charging tourists. Mort and I cannot quite figure him out. He is very nice to us, assuring us he will get a pass to Ladakh for us by tomorrow evening, and that he can get our camping equipment at a much reduced price. No doubt he can, and arrange for ponies too as he is a government employee. Still I feel there is something behind all of this. Perhaps I am wrong. It may be baksheesh and it may be, as Frank suggests, a connection with Mort in America, for Mort told him Frank might open up a paper machie shop there.

Leaving him, we walked around for two hours more, unable to locate our domicile. At seven, just before dark, along it came. A strong wind had sprung up just as we left, and the trackers had had a devil of a time. As it was, they got banged about some and part of the new roof reed matting was torn loose.

If we can get the pass for Ladakh, we shall have to do some snappy work in getting ready. Then, too, I shall have a deuce of a time getting my checks cashed, especially that one sent to Colombo. If we know by tomorrow evening, we can shove out in 36 hours.

Frank is downing Eno’s Fruit Salts so it must be bedtime.

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