Wien, Oesterreich

Montag, October 8, 1928

The dogs have borne the brunt of the attack for 14 straight hours today. Walked all around, up Ring Strasse through the Ausseres Burgtor (gate) and the gardens around the pretty Neue Burg. Across the street are two large museums facing each other with a park, fountains, and statues between. The street itself is wide and covered with large shade trees. Up a bit farther is the Parliament, a large, pretty building with a large fountain in front and many statues on top. Across the street is the park of Neue Burg. Next to this is the Operaburg, a large, attractive, low-domed building and directly opposite it is the Rathaus or Town Hall, having a large spire clock tower and four smaller ones. These huge handsome buildings are everywhere, with many parks, big fountains, squares, and tree-shaded boulevards. Nearly all of the buildings are of a gray granite or limestone and make attractive streets. There are many large streets and plazas where several converge. A multitude of narrow, curving, alley-like streets run in all directions. In these are plenty of little interesting shops, and often several suddenly converge and there is a square with a fountain in the center. The Dom of St. Stephan is very beautiful and inside awe-inspiring, with its immense bigness and height and finely decorated chapels. I went in Sunday and heard part of a service.

The Danube cannot be called a large river. Seems more like a canal flowing through the city to enhance its beauty. Looking upstream you can see the high hills just outside the town. The shops are exceedingly interesting and there are lots of gorgeous displays. Prices seem to be nearly as high here as in the States except for hotels and a few things like knitted sweaters. Spent all day sightseeing, and when no mail had come by 5PM, I wired home for 20 as I only have about $4 to get to Rome on, 15 being tied up in duties. Cost $1.85. Films are about 30¢ and three cost me 91¢.

Tonight I called on Madame Corelli’s friend, Herr Schab, one of the owners of the Promenaden Café right next to my hotel. It is a ritz place. He asked me if I wouldn’t sit down and so I had some of the best kaffee I have ever tasted and paid for it. Then I took a long walk window-shopping. The streets are full of red, blue, and white electric signs. I went inside the City Opera House or Operntheater to see it. The foyer is all marble, the wide stairs the same with statues around the railing of the 1st stock. This is considered the leading opera house in the world.

Gave myself a royal treat, bought a ticket for the IV stock for Sl.50 (21¢) and stood all through Das Goldene Kreuz. Missed part of the first and couldn’t quite make the fine last court scene with much dancing fit in. I fear it never would have passed Columbus censors. It was really good with some marvelous singing. The leading persons were clapped back as many as 8 times by an appreciative audience. The inside is very elaborate and pretty. Five stocks of balconies rise one above the other, and run in an elongated curve from one side of the stage to the other. The troupe was very large and there were at least 150 in the orchestra alone. Between scenes the people all eat or visit.

This certainly is a beautiful fascinating city. You only see half from the streets as the buildings have inner courts and lots of queer places.

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