Wednesday, December 5, 1928
We dock at Marseille at 6AM. After wandering all over the poor section of town, as I always manage to do, I found the good part. Only walked past the American Express Co. four times before I saw it but that is just like a man, I guess, so I’m excused. Got a letter from Dad, Mother, Lippy, Jean (2), Hory, and a paper with the glad tidings of Ind[iana]’s defeat by [Ohio] State, and last but not least, the funny paper.
I like Marseille even if I don’t think it very attractive. The imposing Notre Dame de la Garde reposing high on a rocky hill is very striking and commands a fine view of the city. The cathedral near the harbor is a mammoth affair of Italian Renaissance style and very taking. The Pont Transbordeur is a queer-looking affair—more like a huge crane than a ferry bridge. There are several forts on the harbor, lots of dirty narrow streets in the poorer sections, and some very beautiful gardens, etc. and interesting buildings. $1.31.
Saturday I was again up before dawn and left Toulon at 6:30 AM. Hadn’t gone far before it began to rain but I had to keep on to get my Spanish visa before noon. It was strange how those gentle hills could go up at a steep pace for five straight miles. I was getting all wet when a man in a Ford truck, who had stopped on the road a moment to take a drink, offered to give me a lift—but not a drink. I gladly accepted. It was at the top of a hill and he took me about six miles, all downhill, but I was out of the rain. I rode the last ten, but the rain had ceased. It was nice and cold and I felt like an ad for the North Pole.
Barcelona is a very pretty city. In its heart is the large Plaza de la Cataluña with its gardens, statues and chairs and benches. There are many wide beautiful boulevards and richly ornamented buildings. Some are very bizarre, one especially, having no definite lines. [Certainly the 
Near the good-looking station is the Toros, three stories high, round, and of red brick. I bought some food for lunch and ate it inside the place while watching some men play around practicing bull-fighting. That night at 8:50 PM I was again off on a long journey, this time to Madrid, 16 hours. I was on deck early and got a good seat in a car that had 
The large Parque de Madrid is very nice. In it is a huge monument erected to Alfonso XII, facing a pretty lake. The Toros in Madrid is similar to that in Valencia though slightly larger. The Senate is an imposing building and was, on the evening I left, surrounded for a couple of blocks each way by many cops. The King was probably in there. The 
This country is very unlike that near Madrid. This city is on a great plain, 2,500 feet above sea level, with the Sierra de Guadaramas a few miles to the north. At the border, financial setback No. 2. I tried to get the duty back for my bike. At first they wouldn’t listen to me about it. Next they said the Duanes was not open on Sunday. We argued around for several minutes till somebody got a gentleman out of the train who lived in South Africa and could speak English. Then we could get more understanding. They finally said I only had a receipt for money paid and not an order to pay back the duty. The only thing to do was to go on and see the American Consul at Lisbon. No. 3 came in now. As I was the only 3rd passenger left, they dropped that car. Maybe they do it anyway. The result was that I had to finish 2nd class and the difference I had to pay was about $1.50. I was sure fed up by this time! I decided right then and there to wage war on everything.
the American Vice-Consul about it and he had a big laugh. Seems as though here they go in for dark colors, mostly black; lots of black capes, etc. When I came parading down the Rua with my nice light knickers on and fancy socks, they all thought I was crazy and didn’t conceal the fact. Guess most of them never saw any such things before anyway. It was funny for a while but then got to be a pain. They would stop to watch me pass. If walking in front, would slow up to walk behind me. If a group were talking on a corner, they would all turn around and look at me like I was nuts. Lots would smile and some laugh. Gosh, what dumb people over here! $2.39.
After lunch I went to the American Consulate where I had a nice long talk with the Vice Consul, who is a dandy young fellow. He said they could do nothing to get my duty back on my bike. It seems to be a bad habit in Spain to collect duties and not give them back. He told me of a theatrical troupe which had paid several hundred dollars in duties which they were not able to recover. He also said the same thing would probably happen in Portugal. Thus the cheapest thing for me to do is to forget my bike and leave it here. A pretty darned lowdown dirty practice I calls it and hard on a thin pocketbook. I’ll make it up along the line somewhere. Hope it is in Spain. I’m going to write some Spaniard a mouthful—don’t know who it will be yet, but he’ll get my opinion of his country and Spaniards in general and particular. Next I went to the British Consulate where it took me an hour and three-quarters to get a visa for Egypt—and 220 escudos or about $10.75. That’s hard to take too. The English Consul or Vice Consul, whatever he was, was a nice chap, very English and therefore very interesting. It was five before I left there. Next I went to Wagon-Lits to get the dope on how to get to Seville, not trusting Cook’s. I have two ways to go. The cheaper is by a train, taking some 22 hours I believe. I think I’ll leave here Wednesday night, travel all day Thursday, reaching Seville in the evening, stay there two days, take a bus to Gibraltar Sunday and so be there the 24th. Another fortune shot.
Returning to the Condessa’s house (only once getting lost on the way) I arrived just as she was returning from her meeting. We had an enjoyable tea, talked of travels, language, and some of her Russian friends, princes, etc. At 6:30 I left to take the Express back to Lisboa where I changed my outfit; and now here I am one hour out from Lisbon and 21 more to go to Seville. Thank goodness the train isn’t crowded. Same old hard seats and cold, though!! $7.80.
At three I met del Arco and he showed me about the maze of streets. First some fine mosaics in the court of a countess. Then the home of the 
‘Twas the night before Xmas, and all thru the hotel, not a creature was stirring, only little Hally who was hanging his socks up—but not for Santa. Tonight is the big clean-up night. Got the 6 o’clock bus in plenty of time this morning. The first two hours were cold ones. About 9/10 of the road was n.g., but the bus tore right along, doing about 200 miles in 6¼ hours. At first the country was a broad, rolling prairie, partly cultivated and much used for sheep and cattle grazing. As we got farther south, it became very hilly, almost mountainous, and the rocks, close to the surface, cropped out in many places, making the country look rather rugged and desolate on the whole. This region is but thinly settled. In Algeciras there was a wait of an hour for the boat. It is right across the bay from Gibraltar and you can get an excellent view of the big rock. To your right as you cross the bay looms a mountainous coast, Spanish Morocco. Landing, the herd of hotel agents descended. I had to take pension rates to get a hotel—$2.25 a day. It’s a good hotel, though, and as cheap as I can get here, so Cook’s says. We’ll call it an Xmas treat. They don’t miss feeding you. About 6 courses of everything under the sub. But they’ll sure lose money feeding me.
Gibraltar isn’t a bad city and is certainly a lively one. The sailors and soldiers seem to be having the biggest time. Dancing with each other in the cafés, half tipsy, all singing and yelling. I can hear them singing and raising the roof of some joint right now.
For lunch the same 7-course endurance test and for dinner soup, eggs, fish, steak, french frieds, peas, turkey, boiled spuds, coffee, and cake and cakes. In the afternoon I walked around a bit. The soldiers were having a good time and many were all dressed up in crazy costumes. I took a picture of a couple, talked a while, and went on, soon to meet a soldier and sailor who saw my kodak and wanted their picture taken. Both had indulged too heavily in Xmas cheer and were so comical that I crashed through with a picture. The soldier was very talkative and was going to do lots for me. Wanted to show me through the hospital. Said I would be unexpected but welcome. I couldn’t let him be so kind to me, though.
Today Mrs. Sammet showed me about the city; the Alcazar where a fake sultan and harem are living to help poor innocent tourists see the sights of oriental life. The place is far from striking and has only the Moorish style to take it from the ordinary. The old fortress is the scene of a former battle and I believe the 
After my lunch—
9PM—Same day, third chapter. Met two men who were American and traveling about some, one an architect. The other has been living in Edinburgh for about 2–3 years, and both from San Francisco. It was a glorious day and I showed them around, through Irish Town to the Southern point near the 
The book I was reading last night, 
He proves the world was not made of nothing, but something, and states that the Creator is a real substance or being, possessing personal identity, and is infinite in every perfection of his character. But then he says electricity, which he regards as the primal form of matter, is an emanation from Spirit, Gods. God, then, must be of a more primal form; or is he the motion, function, property of this primal matter? If so, he is not mind—a cause—but an effect; otherwise, spirit is wholly distinct from matter of every form.
10:45PM The wind died in its tracks today, for the most part, and the result was a splendid day. I spent the morning along the east coast of the Rock and in the afternoon played washerwoman for a while. Mail n.g. for 8 days. Had a very delightful time this evening at dinner with Mr. and Mrs. Yarde and another gentleman whose name I did not get. Mrs. Yarde is a very pleasant hostess. Mr. Yarde and the other man were very humorous. The former is quite a photographer and is going to send some pictures and an article to get [National] Geographic magazine to try to get it in—about Southern Spain, the cork industry. He showed me the pictures and they are really good. The other gentleman is going to take me to the top of the Rock tomorrow, stopping for lunch at Mrs. Yarde’s on the way. The people here are surely kind and hospitable. Flivvers may stop, hearts may flop, but school goes on forever. The second quarter at OSU isn’t any exception, either.
Read late last night, so got up late today. Bought myself some white shorts for Egypt if it is warm enough. In the afternoon took a ride with the Baileys, my nieces and nephew, and Mr. Yarde whose birthday it is. Went to another place in the Cork Woods, had tea and a real good time. At noon Mrs. Yarde called up and said that Sir and Lady Nettleton had invited me to a party tomorrow afternoon. I am going with Mr. Merrick—dressed as a pirate—as near as knickers, loud socks, my skean dhu and les moustaches can make me look like one, and whatever Mrs. Yarde has to add. I know I’ll be a hot number. Sir Nettleton is the judge in Gibraltar.
Today was another of those nice sunny days that make the bay and the hills of Spain seem as though they were painted. All morning I was on the go, figuring expenses and getting dope on a trip to Greece and Turkey via Malta. I finally decided no, but went around to see the Captain anyway. He wasn’t in but had told the agent he wouldn’t take me deck. I’ll have to get that Friday boat whether the Captain wants me or not. I have lots of good ideas as to where I am going in the next few months and what I will do in Egypt and Palestine. Rumor hath it there will be a little walking connected with my visit. I’ll have to build up a big reserve for I’ll need it along about the middle of March.
Sure had worse luck heaped on already rotten luck today. The Captain of the 
I had retired late Thursday, so when my steward brought me tea at 6:30 or 7, I was still sleepy. Wisely he leaves the light on, though, so you can’t go to sleep again. The boat was rolling and pitching a good bit and I had much difficulty in keeping on my feet while shaving. The tea and I didn’t get along together at all. I went on deck. We were heading into a driving gale of wind which whipped icy sprays across the deck. I was very cold and it was next to impossible to stand in the wind. I would hate to be a bum sailor this late in the game so I played it safe, as I left a little unsettled, and flopped on my bunk. When I awoke it was 9:30, so I went on deck, glad I had refused breakfast. The sun was out and I stood in a sheltered place talking to a boy from just south of Edinburgh till we were in the harbor at 10:30AM. Scotch isn’t so easy to understand. The weather, two bob, and the fact that I had already seen Toulon kept me from going ashore. Didn’t do a whole lot all day, but read astronomy and spent the evening in my cabin with Jim Speight, of near Preston, England, bound for Sydney, who had been ashore exercising French words with the help of my dictionary. He is a dandy boy, 23, and a joiner and mechanic. The evening was beautiful. The moon, nearly full, over the bay, the lights of the city along the distant shore far below the black towering hills in the background. I wrote a letter to Bob Bruce and some on Jean’s and Dad’s and didn’t turn in till pretty late. One boy of 21 has got in with the wrong crowd on the boat and is dead drunk every night. He was drunk ashore and last night he fell down the 15 or so stairs outside my cabin. Some fool.
Outside of a very strong, cool east wind, the day has been perfect. We sighted land about 9:30AM and by twelve were slowly entering the canal by the city. At the canal’s entrance is a large monument to 
I spent the morning inquiring about cargo vessels to Bombay. At noon I left for Cairo. The train, road, and canal followed side-by-side for many miles with a great expanse of low mudflats on either side. At 
I started to climb 
Next we descended a long steep tunnel some 200 feet or more to a very low tunnel full of dust where I nearly had to crawl. At the end was the 
From 11:30 to 3, I spent in the native quarters. Wending my way through the narrow, crooked maze of passages and streets, I at last arrived at the foot of the Mahommed Ali 
mud villages in the fertile narrow strip near the 
statue of Ramses II, knocked down in the 8th century and now resting on its back. Nearby a sphinx, not so large and much worn.
worse than a Scotchman. Walked 25 miles to save from 30 to 60 cents and would have walked the other 15 to save the two bits, but my feet were hurting. I wouldn’t trade it for anything, though. It was the best way of seeing how the country people 
perhaps a few small square holes in the roof for light.