Dublin, Ireland to Lancaster, England

Saturday, August 4, 1928

Landed Friday morning at 8:30 AM in Dublin. After parking our luggage at the Y we finally found a place to eat. Things don’t open there until 10 and close at 10. The food was bum and cost too much. Next time I come over, I’ll know where not to eat.

We first visited the Trinity College founded in 1591 by Queen Elizabeth. It is built to form two quadrangles having a common side. The buildings are all old, but attractive.

We went through the Zoological Museum at the college. Next we walked to the National Gallery of Art a few blocks distant. Here is a fine collection of painting by painters of all periods and schools, from Benito Giovanni’s Madonna and Child to a fine painting of Woodrow Wilson done by [John Singer] Sargent. Next door was the National Museum. We had had about enough museums by that time and so hurried through.

The government building was next. All three are large and attractive with a large garden fronting the street. A few blocks more and we came to a pretty park, St. Steven’s Green. The National University was next and consisted of one large building. Took a tram to the other side of the city to Phoenix Park, the largest in Europe, 2,000 acres. It is beautiful and has among things a zoo and many statues, one of Wellington similar to Washington Monument, but only 205 ft. high. [Washington Monument is 554+ feet.] On way back we saw Guinness’s Brewery, largest in the world and Four Courts, a pretty but unkempt building.

Boat left at 8:15 PM so we got there at 6:30 and got a stall to sleep in. Steerage was packed going back, but outside of the smell, I didn’t mind. Got several hours sleep for a change. By noon Saturday we had bought bicycles and all accessories for £3/l5s each or about $18.50.

The roads were crowded for Monday is a national holiday, but the first 100 miles is the hardest and when we arrived at Lancaster a little before 8 PM having gone 56.5 miles, we were both worn out. [We do not know how Hall kept such precise track of bicycle miles traveled or, for that matter, miles on foot.] Found a room for 3/6, including breakfast (82¢). No lights and in poor neighborhood, but clean.

Lancaster is a dirty, uninteresting town—streets very narrow and twisty; no pretty buildings, only dirty old ones, and the streets packed with a low class of workers. The Lancaster castle sits on a hill overlooking the town. Next to it is an old church. We wandered around till ten reading the old tombstones of deceased who died around 1708. Even the big, cold-looking castle with its turrets, etc. is not so interesting. It is hemmed in by the town and is now used as a training station for young men going into the army.

Am writing this by candlelight. The Irish are a monument loving race. Dublin is full of them, especially to O’Connor who has become their hero because of his work toward their freedom. They openly hate the English and like the Yankees. They think money grows on trees over here [i.e., in the USA] and never miss an opportunity to squeeze a few pence out of you if possible.

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