Monday, May 27, 1929
Xanadu pulled out early this morning and by breakfast time we were six miles on our way. It was a fine day, so I parked in a deck chair on our veranda for a long time. By noon we were at the dam, or Seventh Bridge. Frank and Abdulla went ahead in a tonga for the mail and met us at the palace near the first bridge. Mort and Frank had a number of letters and I had a letter and telegram from Jean.
We parked in a canal opposite the first bridge and not very far from the Bund. Frank and I walked up to the post office, but were delayed at the photo shop and were too late for stamps. Saw our Denver friend in the shop contracting for the sale of some splendid panorama views he had taken of Kashmir. Must be a professional photographer.
We got prices on canned goods, etc. for our trip, but as it stands now, we won’t take much tinned stuff along.
Tonight after dinner we told Abdulla we could not afford to take Lussoo to Ladakh. We had figured on 94 rupees a day, or $1.00 as a fair wage for his services as guide and cook. However, he would not go without Lussoo. The latter, I believe, wants a certificate as guide for Ladakh. At any rate, they said they would go for 100 rupees a month and would buy their own shoes and clothes for the trip. As a rule, we would have to furnish them with these things, blanket, shoes, coat, turban, etc. totaling some 30 rupees each. At 100 a month it would be 125 for five weeks, a difference of 31 rupees, and we really have a cook, which is better after all. Thus, extra costs for Lussoo would amount to his food, some $5 to $8. Roughly things figure at this for five weeks:
Souvenirs and kodak films will run it up plenty. The pans and dishes go with Lussoo, so we don’t have to buy them.
Things aren’t decided definitely yet and won’t be till some investigation tomorrow. When they are, though, we shall lose no time in getting away. Abdulla can’t sink it into his hat-rack that we do not want to travel in the luxury of these other tourists. Masters must have this and sahibs that—folding tables, chairs, cots, and a million other useless things we won’t take.
Somehow we must find time tomorrow afternoon to paddle a Shikari, I hope not ours, over six miles to Dal Lake. The Mohammedans are having a big day tomorrow at Nishat Bagh, where the water will run through the otherwise dry channels and fountains. The grand crash is the exhibition of one of the hairs from the beard of Mohammed the Prophet. I suppose it is red and no more attractive than mine will look when we trek over the Himalayas to Leh. Mine must lack sex appeal. Weight today 156 lbs.