Bremen, Heuhaufen, and Hamburg, Germany

Thursday, September 13, 1928

Noon time and the pot of potatoes is boiling over. Yesterday after I had jewed the hotel people down to 1½ M, they insisted on my having breakfast of coffee and rolls before I left, at their expense. [Maybe they were actually Jewish and appreciated his fine technique…] The architecture of many stores, etc. is peculiar, something like Stratford-on-Avon with the squares of brown beams and filled in between with plaster, but the high pointed roofs are built in layers from the front, each layer extending out several inches beyond the lower one, arching the roof over the street about a yard.

Before I left town I bought a tall narrow pan with a lid to it. About noon time I got some potatoes, beans, and a turnip out of a field and cut them up into the pan. Later I got some water and cooked my lunch in a woods. Some raisin bread from dinner added the finishing touches. The country did not become hilly, only very little in spots, and so I reached Bremen before six. Went to the Am.Exp. for stamps and to change some Dutch money into German and then out to look for a room. As there was a big boat leaving for the States soon, every available place was taken and I could get nothing at a reasonable price. Finally after a long search I bought another loaf of bread for dinner and started toward Hamburg eating it, thinking to find an inn on the way. It soon became dark and after several miles of looking about, etc. I was just ready to ride all night. But the last farmer I asked suggested I sleep in the hayloft in his barn which I did. Even buried in the hay it was cold and I was glad when morning came and I was once more on my way.

Got cleaned up and washed out my pan at a town pump, and then proceed to get potatoes enough for two pots full. One is now done and I shall proceed to eat it with no utensils. Having been in a frat at State, I will soon have a spoon. I also have ½ loaf of bread to go with it. Spent about 60¢ yesterday. Rode 96½ miles. Last night when inquiring for a place to stay I asked for a glass Wasser. Another man near insisted on setting me up to beer. These Germans are all right.

Arrived in Hamburg about 3 PM after some terrible cobblestones from Harburg to here. Went to the Am.Exp.Co. and found out it would cost some $65 plus visa to go to Stockholm. Now I guess I’ll ride up to Kiel, see the canal, and maybe go up to Norway before going to Berlin. Had a very hard time finding a reasonable place in which to stay, but finally found this hotel and a nice room. Since the Copenhagen trip is off, I blew myself to a 30¢ dinner, but had to get the bread and a bar of chocolate to fill up the empty places. Am writing in bed and eating bread and mustard with H2O and candy. My appetite is huge. I am never full.

Hamburg is a pretty city and teems near the docks with sailor life. A band of some sort is going on the next street over. The docks are full of big freighters and passenger vessels and little craft. Went through a country town yesterday that was having a circus. It was a real treat to see all the people come in from miles around dressed up in their best. Many churches in the smaller towns have bells that play a tune every ¼ hour. They are very musical and pretty. Sound like little silver bells. Will spend the day sightseeing tomorrow and leave Saturday.

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