Lubin, Germany

Sunday, September 30, 1928

Today has been a most miserable one. It has rained practically all of the 70 miles I have come—a very cold rain. It was misty and cold and many of the roads were full of puddles. Upon starting I inquired about the road and the good people hauled me all over town for 40 minutes and wouldn’t let me go before they found a man who could speak French. At noon I had a good lunch of scrambled eggs and potatoes, but small. Got good and soaked this afternoon, clear to the skin. To help matters, the rope again broke and off came my pack.

Have a dandy room at a hotel here [Lubin] for 2 marks. My clothes didn’t get wet, but my nice paper suitcase is in bad shape. I went right to bed though, only six. My clothes are up drying (?) and I am beginning to get thawed out. 18 apples will have to suffice for dinner. With 6 gone so far, I have had 10 so far today but they are not so large. Spent 76¢. There was a round-the-world man at the hotel as I came in [who was] trying to get a free room. Looked more like a bum. Oh, what a miserable day! !

Freiburg, Germany

Monday, September 31,1928 —[Monday, October 1, 1928]

To save my poor suitcase I bought an oilcloth covering for it and put a flat board under it. Left Lubin at 9:30. It was very cloudy and a gale of wind against me making it ice cold. The only way to keep warm was to pump as hard as you could—in fact it was necessary to do this to even go at a walking pace against the wind. Rain clouds would blow over, but it wouldn’t rain long. Stopped in Leignitz to get some Czecho-Slovakian money and a few miles farther on for a good lunch of meat soup, beets, and potatoes for 1 mark. At Streigau I asked the way of the inspector of police, who took me to his office and they all had a great time going through my passport to see where I had been. A half block from there I was stopped by a cop who hauled me right back to the inspector, much to my disgust. Here I entered the foothills of the Sudetes and had lots of walking to do. My baggage is really heavy.

Reached Waldenburg at 5:30 just before dark and the hotel I first stopped at wanted 2.50 for a room, so I went on. Couldn’t find another place in town, so went back to the first hotel where the insignificant brat showed me how small he could be by telling me he had no rooms left. This forced me to backtrack in the dark. At a gasthaus the inquisitive man wanted to see my passport, but as it was none of his business, I wouldn’t show it to him.

Finally had to ride 8 miles back to Freiburg, where I have a good room and warm, first warm one I have yet had and for 2 marks. Came back in a slight drizzle but had a two-mile hill in my favor. Rode 62 miles and spent $1.13. Am but a few miles from the border, but those hills make you weak when you look at them and they are only the start. It is a welcome change though, as I haven’t been over hills for the last 1,600 miles.

Am eating usual supper.

Prague, Czecho-Slovakia

Tuesday, October 2, 1928

Tuesday morning I started out in a slight drizzle, which increased to a regular rain by the time I had gone 9 miles, so I stopped in a saloon for a half hour and watched a game of cards. When a break in the clouds came, I went on—up a 3-mile hill. It began to hail going down the other side. Gosh, but it was freezing cold and my hands were numb. A terrific wind blew directly against me.

Nine miles more and the rain began again in earnest, so I stopped in the station at Freiland, I believe it was. It wasn’t worth it to travel in that kind of weather. There was a train for Prague in 15 minutes, at 12, so I rushed to the Passkontrol, where I had a real surprise, for after 10 minutes he told me my visa was false. This made me mad and while we were arguing, he in Deutsch and I in English, the train pulled out. The seal on my visa was not that official seal of the London Consulate. I was informed that I would have to wait around until 4PM, so I went out for lunch. After eating one restaurant out of spuds, I raided a bäkerei to satisfy the appetite. They were evidently having a parade in town that afternoon for the many soldiers were all dressed up with their many medals and the “big boys” of the town wore their swallow-tails and high hats.

It was too cold to wait around, so back I went to my friend to find everything all fixed up. The rain had stopped so I decided to take another crack at the remaining 100 miles. I was going fast when I came to the German customs or Zollamt two miles farther on, so I didn’t stop. Enough trouble from them for one day. Not so much luck with Czecho-Slovakia, for they yelled at me. Had to pay a duty on the bike of 420 korun or over $12.50.

Once in my 13th country, I really had a tough time with the wind and did well to make enough headway to stay on the bike. Four miles of it and then I pumped so hard getting up a small hill the chain broke. My sprocket was also on the bum, so I started a 20-mile walk to Nachod where I could get them fixed, but having more luck than sense or cents, I was very near to a country railroad station, where I got a train to Prague an hour later at 4:32PM. The country is like a dream, all beautiful hills and pine forests with broad green valleys and tiny narrow ones winding around the hills with the familiar babbling brooks. The fields are finely cultivated and very neat, while on all other ground is grown grass, cut short like a well-kept lawn.

Arriving in Prag at 9:20 PM, I saw a YMCA but they had no vacant rooms. Two American boys living here while going to the Conservatory here spotted me and gave me an extra bed in the Y. It is a new building and a peach. The boys, Paul Paulus and [Norton and Nandor Kozell] are certainly fine to me. Two young men in my room speak very few words of English. This morning Paul and I took the bike down to get it fixed, then to the post office where I found a dandy letter from Vance I was sure glad to get [Vance Rogers would meet Hall in Honolulu over a year later], and then sightseeing about the town. It is very interesting and has some fine buildings such as the Opera House, the National Museum, and the Palace. At noon we had lunch with another American, Norton, a Phi Delta Sigma from Minnesota, who has just arrived here. They all have treated me fine, one of the men in my room even giving me lots of stamps for my collection. It is funny to see the women working on the roads in Germany.

Spent 61¢ yesterday and $2.30 train fare including bike. Spent 66¢ today.

Prag, Czecho-Slovakia

Wednesday, October 3, 1928

Yesterday I walked across the river and up on the hill through a pretty park there to the Castle. By the castle is an old Renaissance church, St. Vita, very large and pretty. The inside was under repair but it is very fine work. The castle is large, having two big courtyards. It commands a fine view of Prag. Then I walked to the next hill where the Eiffel Tower of Prag stands, only it is 99 meters high. I came back to the Y at 5:50 and at 6:30 went out for a walk, stopping at bakeries a couple of times to get some rolls to eat. Some of the show windows are pretty and the many arcades are interesting. Some sections of town are very quaint and full of life. The streets were packed after dark. Praga is the center of Bohemian life. Met Nandor and Morton on the street about 8 and we went back to the Y.

Again, this morning J.U.C. Vladimír Záskodný made tea and I had three cups. The heavy fog soon disappeared and Paul and I went to the Post where I found a letter from Jean. Then we went to get some Austrian money and for my bike. We took a couple of pictures and I left at 11:30.

What a ride today. Wind against me, the first two miles a steep hill out of town and the next ten were torn up as they were building a concrete road. I had to get off and walk every few feet through mud, sand, and ploughed fields and over piles of rocks and gravel. Had lunch at 1:30 for Kc7.50. Had polevkie (soup), gulas (meat, some kind of bread in gravy) and 2 kousky (rolls). Twenty miles from Prag my bum sprockets broke and I had to walk two miles to KostelecvCL, where I can’t get it fixed. Started to walk to Benesov, but after a mile I found I have come 10 miles on the wrong road and so returned here where I have a cold Kc10 room. Is clouding up and looks like rain. Spent 80¢ today and $1.20 for bike; rode and walked 28 miles. Wish that bonehead had put a new sprocket in like I wanted him to. Have ridden 2,977.7 miles

Taboru, Czecho-Slovakia

Thursday, October 4, 1928

I seem to have changed my tactics and am now taking a hike through Europe. Started at 7:15 and walked 32 miles over the hills before I could get my bike fixed in Benesov. Could have taken a shorter cut, but took a chance of finding a place before reaching there and lost. Roads are poorly marked and I got off once or twice. Had lunch in the kitchen of a Hostice for Kc11. When the bike was OK, I rode 29 miles to Taboru and have a good room for Kc11. Another man in it too, but haven’t seen him yet.

The cloudy morning [Friday, October 5, 1928] gave way to a warmer sunny afternoon. The hills are big and very pretty. Lots of pine and cedar forests on them. Got to Taboru at 6:30 after dark, with still over 100 to Wien. This country manufactures very fine cut glass and airplane motors. Fine laces and silks are made by hand and sold cheaply.

These back-country dirt roads are not so hot. Rode and walked 61 miles. Spent 88¢ and 15¢ for bike.

Horn, Austria

Samstag, October 5 or 6, 1928

Left at 7:30 and nearly froze for an hour. Then the sun came out and it was a fine day. At noon I had soup and two orders of gülosh and rice. About two I came to Austria and had to pay a 100-schilling duty ($15.00). The village I had picked to stay in was too small to have a place, so I had to go 13 miles on to here, starting at 6. I had gone 6½ miles and was making dandy time when I hit a stone in the dark and blew the front tire. Walked 4½ miles and the light of a passing auto showed me it was shot, so I rode it flat the last two miles to Horn. Have a room for 1½S or 21¢.

Austria, where I have been, is similar to Czecho-Slovakia and very pretty. Rode 89 miles and the hills and wind have made me plenty tired. I’ve walked 41 miles since leaving Praha. Spent 92¢ today. I’ll probably have trouble getting a tire tomorrow. If so, I’ll walk 25 miles and take a train the last 25 to Wien. Everybody makes a lot of hot air over me being an American.

Wien, Oesterreich

Sonntag, October 7, 1928

Had my old tire patched and left Horn at nine. For lunch the menu again was gülosh and spuds. Entering Wien a boy on a bike ahead of me took a nice spill when the frame fell apart. Five miles of cobblestones and I was in the heart of the city.

Got a 5S room for 4S in the Hotel Linke in the heart of town and a dandy room. It had been hazy all day and, when I was all dressed up like a civilized person again, it was drizzling again. Took a walk and had dinner, the first real one I have bought since Aachen, Sept. 5. Spent $1.35 and 14¢ for puncture. Rode 56 miles today.

Wien looks very interesting. There are large public buildings on all sides, wide boulevards, classy cafes and many evidences of many foreign visitors. The country was flatter today, but there are some very large hills near Wien. On one was a large castle. Riding through the hills, every direction you look can be seen the white church towers sticking up and maybe a small village of white houses nearby. The scenery is picturesque.

Wien, Oesterreich

Montag, October 8, 1928

The dogs have borne the brunt of the attack for 14 straight hours today. Walked all around, up Ring Strasse through the Ausseres Burgtor (gate) and the gardens around the pretty Neue Burg. Across the street are two large museums facing each other with a park, fountains, and statues between. The street itself is wide and covered with large shade trees. Up a bit farther is the Parliament, a large, pretty building with a large fountain in front and many statues on top. Across the street is the park of Neue Burg. Next to this is the Operaburg, a large, attractive, low-domed building and directly opposite it is the Rathaus or Town Hall, having a large spire clock tower and four smaller ones. These huge handsome buildings are everywhere, with many parks, big fountains, squares, and tree-shaded boulevards. Nearly all of the buildings are of a gray granite or limestone and make attractive streets. There are many large streets and plazas where several converge. A multitude of narrow, curving, alley-like streets run in all directions. In these are plenty of little interesting shops, and often several suddenly converge and there is a square with a fountain in the center. The Dom of St. Stephan is very beautiful and inside awe-inspiring, with its immense bigness and height and finely decorated chapels. I went in Sunday and heard part of a service.

The Danube cannot be called a large river. Seems more like a canal flowing through the city to enhance its beauty. Looking upstream you can see the high hills just outside the town. The shops are exceedingly interesting and there are lots of gorgeous displays. Prices seem to be nearly as high here as in the States except for hotels and a few things like knitted sweaters. Spent all day sightseeing, and when no mail had come by 5PM, I wired home for 20 as I only have about $4 to get to Rome on, 15 being tied up in duties. Cost $1.85. Films are about 30¢ and three cost me 91¢.

Tonight I called on Madame Corelli’s friend, Herr Schab, one of the owners of the Promenaden Café right next to my hotel. It is a ritz place. He asked me if I wouldn’t sit down and so I had some of the best kaffee I have ever tasted and paid for it. Then I took a long walk window-shopping. The streets are full of red, blue, and white electric signs. I went inside the City Opera House or Operntheater to see it. The foyer is all marble, the wide stairs the same with statues around the railing of the 1st stock. This is considered the leading opera house in the world.

Gave myself a royal treat, bought a ticket for the IV stock for Sl.50 (21¢) and stood all through Das Goldene Kreuz. Missed part of the first and couldn’t quite make the fine last court scene with much dancing fit in. I fear it never would have passed Columbus censors. It was really good with some marvelous singing. The leading persons were clapped back as many as 8 times by an appreciative audience. The inside is very elaborate and pretty. Five stocks of balconies rise one above the other, and run in an elongated curve from one side of the stage to the other. The troupe was very large and there were at least 150 in the orchestra alone. Between scenes the people all eat or visit.

This certainly is a beautiful fascinating city. You only see half from the streets as the buildings have inner courts and lots of queer places.

Wien, Oesterreich

Dienstag, October 9, 1928

After working over some washing, I sallied forth in quest of Schönbrunn Castle. Rode all over the west end of town but n.g. Got a new sprocket put in my bike—84¢. In the afternoon I got some directions and found the castle. It is a palace, attractive, but the marvelous gardens hold your interest. A big gateway leads up to the castle. Walking through the gate you emerge into a beautiful garden. The walk goes to a large fountain and on either side the trees are cut like a hedge 35 ft. high.

Straight on up a big hill is a huge monument from which can be seen the city and surrounding hills. All through the great gardens are fountains and statues and the trees are cut like hedges, some straight up and some to form perfect arches.

Tonight I went to the opera to see Die ägyptische Helena. Both the acting and the singing were very good.

Still no more mail. Spent $1.37 today. My financial condition has reduced me to bread and honey yesterday and 3½ loaves of bread and some good cheese today. It is very sustaining (including the smell) and good.

It is near 165 miles to Budapest. I go tomorrow.

Gyor, Hongerie

Mittwosh, October 10, 1928

Gave the porter a 2S tip and left hotel at 9. Got films for S2.70 and sent them to Jean and Madame Corelli. No mail at Poste. The country was as flat as a pancake, but the hills were in the distance. It was warmer than usual. Didn’t stop for lunch, but ate a couple of small brots as I rode. Came into Hungary at 2:30 and they didn’t charge any duty on the bike. Now I’m okay financially until another heavy duty on the bike.

Some of the Austrian roads were abominable and no more than wagon tracks and very rough. They went over the plain miles from a town and not a sign to guide you. Very seldom you see a machine or person in some parts. Hungary was better.

All the little villages with their white plastered houses and thatched roofs are filthy. They make a pretense at cleanliness, but cows, chickens, geese, etc. are all over and in the streets which are never cleaned. The kids are playing in all the filth. Got to Györ, a good sized city, at 5:15 and have a good room at reduced cost to 2.54 pengös, because I am an American student; and the best hotel in town. Is now raining. It drizzled once today. The cheese tonight smells the worst yet. It bites you. Total spent today $1.50 for all. Rode 82 miles.

Budapest, Hungaria

Csütörtök, Ocktöber 11, 1928

Left after 8. Roads were good, bad and muddy, mostly bad. At noon I had chicken (flash?), mashed spuds, soup, and a good tomato sauce for 26¢. The weather was milder. Had a puncture in the back tire and walked over two miles to a town. Man was out, so I fixed it myself. Got in the hills 30 miles from Budapest. They are high and wooded, many high and peaked. Got to Budapest at 5:15 and hunted up the Poste. It was the wrong one and too late to get mail at the other. Have a passable room for 4 pengös (marked 5) in Hotel Europa. Room opens on inside courts.

You are required to give your pass[port] at every hotel where you stay and they return it the next day. In the meantime the police inspect it. Was surprised to see women employed in building houses, carrying bricks, etc. Many houses in country of a mud-and-hay composition. Have a monstrous loaf of bread tonight and cheese doesn’t bite enough. Wouldn’t give up my bread dinner even if I could afford a real one. Rode 85 miles today. Spent $1.25 or 25¢ too much. Have traveled 8,946 miles in just 3 months in 15 countries—3,372 on my bike.

Budapest, Magyar

Péntek, Oktober 12, 1928

Drizzled this morn, but soon cleared off. Got a letter from Lippy and 2 from Jean at Föposta. Walked about town all morn and at noon came back and ate more of my huge loaf of brot and cheese. Took kodak in afternoon and went across Danu River up the big hill to Halászbastya which looks like a fortress from a distance. Is only a wall and some attractive towers from which a fine view of Pest may be had. Nearby is the Mátyás-templon a Varbon or Church of King Mathew in the Fortress. The inside walls and pillars are all painted in curious mosque designs and [there are] some large paintings on the walls. Farther along the hill is the Királyi palota (Royal Palace). It too overlooks Pest, is very large, and has a pretty garden in front. On the next hill—and it is a high rugged one—stand the ruins of Vajda Hunyad vára, an old fortification. A wonderful view for miles can be had from here—the hills or mountains to the north and west, Pest in the east, and a plain on the south with the river meandering through it. The place is a park now.

Coming back across the Danu, I fooled around for an hour before I found the Föposta, but n.g. on more mail. Started to rain, but has stopped now. Pest is more interesting as a whole. There are not so many outstanding things of interest. Parliament and the Dom of St. Stephani are very pretty. Many rounded towers and domes are seen and many of the buildings show more tendency toward the oriental and mosque features. Pest is really very modern though. Four large modern bridges span the Danu; Erzsébet-hid or the Elizabeth Bridge is quite noted. Lots of streets are very wide and many very narrow, all going in every direction. Just try to find your way about! All sorts of things on wheels shooting in every direction on all sides of the street. The left side is the official one though, in Ceskoslovenska, Austria, and here. Lots of swell cafés here and the stores carry nice lines of goods. Beggars are numerous both here and in Wien. Good thing Pest is only 930,000 large [1,712,210 in 2009 for Budapest] or I’d drop dead from too much walking. 3 meals of bread and cheese today. It’s real good, but I’ll be getting fat from eating so much soon. Spent 96¢ today and 8¢ for police registration.

Budapest, Hungary

Szombat, Oktober 13, 1928

The day has been rainy and cold. I took a walk this morn and again this afternoon. Got two books from the library, one a book of translated poems by Petófi, Hungary’s greatest poet, and the other Elements du Rhétorique Française by Filon, in French.

The hotel portier is quite interesting and speaks English, French, German, and Hungarian. Was interred in England during the War. He lent me a good guide to Budapest. The city is divided into two parts; Buda on one side of the Danu and Pest on the other. Finally got my money cabled from home, $30, in five days. Have to wait till Monday to get Italian visa and for bank to open. Same diet today and am all stored up for tomorrow. The streets are full of beggars and old hags, some of whom go around nibbling on old crusts and [with] pitiful expressions. Men and women who sell papers yell in a dull monotonous monotone. People are very polite here. Men salute and tip there hats to each other. There are many picturesque women here with the checked or loud-colored full skirts, tight-fitting jackets, and bright kerchiefs over their heads. Spent $1.45 today.

Budapest, Hungary

Vasárnap, Oktober 14, 1928

The day was cold and cloudy. Wrote Vance a letter in Föposta where it was warm till janitor opened the windows. In the afternoon I walked to the park and gardens. Two large Greek-style museums stand on each side of the entrance. There is a large lake with the replica of an old medieval castle on its banks. Budapest is famous for its mineral waters and healing baths. In the park are two large Palace baths, both very fine. At one corner of the park is Angel Amusement Park, full of dilapidated amusements and halitosis hunks. Walked for four hours and returned to write Dad and Jean letters. Have to do some great sewing now. Spent 66¢ today.

Kesythely, Ungarn

Kedd, Oktober 16, 1928

Got a bad start out of Budapest. The Italian Consulate couldn’t speak English and thought I wanted a free visa and asked me to get a letter from the American Consulate. I went to the Am. C. and he straightened it all out, so I got some snappy service from Italy, but it was 12:30 before I got away—and on the wrong road. Soon got straightened out though. This was Hétfo. Cloudy and cold but I rode out of the clouds.

Székesfehervar, 53 miles, by five and rode all over town not seeing a hotel. When I stopped to ask, a big crowd gathered around and one man volunteered to show me. Tried 2 but n.g. Have a hunch they thought I wanted the room gratis. He then took me home with him to his humble 2-room home. Had a wife and 3 kids, age 1, 2, and 3. Had dinner by light of THE lamp in bedroom—other room sort of a kitchen and storeroom. He couldn’t speak English, but I learned the magyarisch for many things and forgot it all. Too much tongue-twisting. I got one of the two beds and slept half-dressed. Between the kids and cat there, was not much sleeping. Had kávé and rolls for breakfast, kávé having rum in it. Spent $1.24, most all for service and tips at hotel and stamps and 58 pegyör or $10 for visa.

Today left at 7. Was freezing cold for a couple hours and then just cold, though day was nice and sunny. Roads have been fairly decent thus far. For 6 hours rode along shores of Lake Balaton, the largest lake in Europe, 35 by 2 to 7½ miles. On other shore were large hills and mountains, the white plaster towns and houses dotting the slopes. Water was very blue. Is a marvelous sight. Have to be very careful not to get caught in the hills after 5:30 or so, and had to stop at Keszthely, a fair-sized place at west end of lake, as it is 30 miles to the next large town. Rode 82 miles today.

Passed a town crier all dressed up in uniform with drum yelling the news in the middle of the road. Also the first pretty girl I have seen in Hungary. Women here are good at carrying baskets on their head. I followed one for a mile and she didn’t make a slip. The grapes are excellent in this section. Pants are wearing and I’ll have to get on the sewing job now. Spent 75¢ today.

Kotoriba, Yugo-Slavia

Szerda, Október 17, 1928

From bad to worse. Left at 7. Frost so heavy it was like snow. Could hardly see 100 yards through mist. Hands and feet frozen stiff for 3 hours. 12 miles from Kotariba I got off right road and to get back, following directions, I rode over 42 miles of impossible roads, wagon tracks and footpaths. Got a ferry to cross Mar River to Yugoslavia, but two soldiers bound to make trouble sent me 2.5 miles down the river to a customs station. Rode down R.R. track between ties. Crossed rivers twice on ferries and got to Kotoriba at dark, 5:30. No hotel, but a soldier took me to a restaurant across from R.R. station where they have rooms. Have one for 20 dinars. Got a large pot—6 cups—of soup and lots of rolls for dinner. It is hard traveling here—poor roads, no signposts, towns having hotels few and far apart.

Have to be very careful to get to one by 5:30. Gets dark and very cold then. Many Hungarians not friendly toward English and Americans. No duty on bike here. Gentle hill country, very pretty. Hope that cold head-wind dies out tomorrow. Rode 72 miles today. Spent 93¢.

Maribor, Yugoslovenska

Thursday, October 18, 1928

Left at 6:45. Was very cold, but milder than Thursday. Got on wrong road a mile out of town, but only went 4 miles. At noon I was all twisted up and didn’t know where to go. Everybody gives me a different direction and there are no good guides to follow. Finally wound up here at 4. I had no hills to climb but there was a range of big ones to my right and a high rugged range of mountains several miles to my left. I rode between [them] all day. In one small village there was a funeral for a child. It was a pitiful affair. Two small boys led the procession down the road carrying a banner and a cross. Then came four boys carrying the small casket and following them three or four people.

The scenery was fine all day. Maribor is a fair-sized city on the Drava River, surrounded on 3 sides by high mountains very close and hills on the other. I have a fine room in the best hotel and brand new, but for 70¢.

It is fun riding early. Going through small villages you have to dodge through herds of cattle and flocks of geese in the road. Tried to get some bitey cheese and found that what I have been eating is full of worms. Maybe they will bite. There are as many oxen used for hauling as horses. Very pretty slice of moon over the mountain tonight. Rode 87 miles and spent 99¢ today. Getting to be a spendthrift.

Ljubljana, Yugoslovenska

Friday, October 19, 1928

A surprise in every package. Left Maribor at 6:50 and followed a mountain for 12 miles. Just as I started to cross a range of hills, a strong wind began. The hills led to mountains and the wind increased in velocity till I could hardly ride. Had almost despaired of getting farther than Celje or Cilli, when I came to an unexpected downgrade of 6 miles and so got to Celje at 11. It was a question of whether I could ride 50 miles more in 6 hours, but I took the chance. Didn’t stop for lunch but bought a loaf of brot and some cheese which I ate outside of the town. The weather was cloudy and quite cool. The wind came ripping over the mountains like a hurricane and stronger every minute, blowing great clouds of dust down the road. It was finally so bad I couldn’t go fast enough to stay on the bike and even had to walk on level ground.

The road led through a flat country with mountains close by on all sides. They were high and tree-covered with high peaks. They soon closed in on me and I started over them, the Karawenkans. 8 miles of winding up the narrow valleys and I reached the top, but still I was far below the summits. The leaves are turning and colored the slopes all different colors. On every side were high peaks and mountains and I could see far down the valley to where it turned. The next ten miles was almost all down-slope but against the wind. A small mountain stream raced alongside the road. The wind died when I reached the bottom and I arrived at this nice, fairly large city at 4:30. If it hadn’t been for the mountains, I wouldn’t be here yet. The hotel costs a fortune, 50 dinara, 88¢ but the warm room is great. I’ll stay up late and get my money’s worth. Had 8 apples today and they are plenty good.

You sure see lots of queer humans in these mountains. The women are by the stream scrubbing their clothes on a board or working in the fields with the men. It is surprising how much to a type the women and girls are here. Laibach [present-day Ljubljana] is near 25 miles from the border and completely surrounded by imposing mountains. Tomorrow I cross the Julian Alps, some 60 miles to Trieste. The roads were pretty good today and well marked—honest. Rode 88 miles and spent $1.34. Have to wash my hair now and get cleaned up for Sunday.

Trieste, Italy

Saturday, October 20, 1928

Started at 7 with a cloudy sky. Soon I was climbing a 4½-mile mountain. Instead of coming down again, the road went through upland pastures, winding around, as it went up, like a serpent, each stretch a little higher. The Yugo officials were surprised I had paid no duty on my bike and soaked me 7½ dinara tax. Then I went to a store and spent my 5½ remaining dinara for it was too small for the bank to change. The Italians went through lots of red tape, finally charging a duty of $11.30 or 210 lira and a tax of 4l.

The farther I rode, the higher and larger the mountains and the higher the road went till I was in the clouds and it was a little misty. The clouds often completely covered a peak so you would be unaware of its presence till almost to it. The scenery was marvelous, especially with the leaves turning color.

Finally the road came down 9½ miles and as I rounded a bend, all of Trieste with the calm Mediterranean lay hundreds of feet below me. It was a most splendid view. I wound down the steep road four miles into the city. It is a wonder I got in a hotel for I was white with dust, even my hands. A little jewing and I got my room for 10.5l or 55¢.

There is something fascinating and charming about Trieste. I fell right into the air and spent two hours leisurely wandering about the city. It is an attractive and busy place. Part of it is built on the slope of the mountain. The sea was very beautiful with the sun sinking down toward the horizon. The sun came out as soon as I got in Italy and the weather is quite mild, even the evening. I broke down and got a haircut, nearly 2 months and the barber worked long and hard over it, cutting off an unbelievable amount. I urged him to cut off more, so it is quite short. Rode 69 miles over pretty good roads for the most part and spent $2.26 including taxes and 2 films,13l.

Venice, Italy

Sunday, October 21, 1928

Oh, what a day this turned out to be. The road followed the shore, gradually rising till it was some 200 feet above the waters, in the side of the hill. At 6 it was mildly cool and the air fragrant. It was a perfect ride for 20 miles, high above the calm sea dotted with tiny craft and the great rocky hills towering up from the road. The road then cut away from the sea and went through mostly uninteresting country, flat, to Venice. They had told me at the hotel it was an 81-mile ride. At noon I had gone 60.

After a good but too-small lunch I set out on the wrong road and was told it was the right one, thus going 24 miles out of my way. A goodly part of the last twenty was done in a regular cloud-burst. It got dark as I entered Mestre. It is a fair-sized place with an amusement park and packed with people. Got off the road again, but finally reached the dock and took the 4-mile ride to Venice. The rain had stopped and the moon shone pretty, reflected in the water. The boat steamed up a street and I landed. Didn’t have an idea of where I was but followed the crowd into a busy street where I got a good room in a nice hotel for 13.35l or 70¢. I was soaked to the skin and my britches had a six-inch rip at the knee. In other words, I was a wreck and went to bed right away, at 8. Rode 130 miles and 4 on boats. Spent $1.65 which is too darned much.

Venice, Italy

Monday, October 22, 1928

I spent a very bad night fighting mosquitoes from 10:30 to 4 . As soon as I would kill one and get half asleep, another would come around. Killed 20. It was drizzling this morning and I took a boat up the main drag to the Am. Exp.Co. where I found a letter from Jean, Mother, Betty B., and Uncle Billy. Gosh, it was great to really get mail again. Watched a British cruiser, three destroyers, and another English naval boat pull out of the harbor and then started to see the city. It is the most amazing and interesting place in which I have ever been. Water everywhere, large canals, small ones and tiny ones, going in all directions. Great spaces of water between the islands and boats of every kind hurrying everywhere. Dandy motor boats, gondolas, small freight boats rowed by oar, sail boats, and passenger boats. No machines nor bicycles here nor anyplace for them. The streets are but sidewalks, some pretty wide and a multitude of small ones from three to 15-feet wide. They zig-zag in all directions and are not continuous. Some are blind. To get anyplace you twist through these narrow passages, up steps over little bridges over canals, until in a few minutes you are entirely lost. You never know what to expect around the next turn. It might be a large square or piazza, a church, or a tiny canal.

The palazzio is a fine big square enclosed by striking buildings. Of these the Basilica Patriarcale S. Marco is the most outstanding. It is of interesting design and both outside and in has much mosaic design work and pictures mostly in gold. The inside is very Italian in effects. All around the palazzio are fine shops, mostly selling curios and beautiful laces, and also several cafés. The streets in this district are especially interesting because of the fine shops. In other parts they are cheaper.

The buildings over most the city are old and dilapidated. It is hard to believe that humans really exist in them. So many are dark, dirty, damp, and packed in. The people are interesting, of all types and they make lots of noise yelling at each other and singing. The streets are always busy, especially the market places. There is a very pretty park near the end of the Grande Canale. For lunch I bought a large potato and a couple rolls. They boil the spuds with the skins on and sell them hot on the street. They are very good and sort of sweet. Same thing for dinner.

I followed the crowds and got back to the hotel this afternoon, but again venturing out at 4, I was hopelessly lost. Could not even find the Grande Canale. Wandered about in circles in the maze for over an hour, coming back to a square three times and losing all sense of direction. Finally found my way back just at dark. The hotel is near the Stazione Zenterale. Have started early tonight and killed 12 mosquitoes but there are more. It is a mystery to me where they come from. Washed some clothes out but they are not drying. Never knew one collegiate slicker could be so terribly conspicuous. They walk all around me commenting on it. Spent $1.00 today.

Venice, Italy

Tuesday, October 23, 1928

With the going of the 13th mosquito, I slept all right. This morn was cloudy but soon cleared up. I walked around taking pictures and went for a ride in a gondola for half an hour—10l. At noon most of the shops closed. Am getting so I can go through the tangle of passages in 40 minutes and not really get lost. Treated myself to a pack of cheap cigarettes, 2nd since leaving home, and got the bike cleaned up and pants sewed at hotel. Will try to make Bologna tomorrow. Spent $1.78 today. Too much!!!

Bologna, Italy

Wednesday, October 24, 1928

At 4AM three mosquitoes came to life, so after killing them, just got up and left on the 5:10 boat for Mestre. The roads were fine today except 25 miles, and I made good time, arriving at Bologna at 3:35. There were several large residences in the country near Padova, fine places with large gardens. Many, though, were going to ruin and had poor families in them. Past Pàdova the road ran parallel to some rugged hills for several miles. There were evidences of the glory of former days about. On the top of one rugged peaked hill stood the ruins of an old castle and in the towns were ancient buildings.

In Bologna and most other cities about here the streets are very narrow and instead of open sidewalks, they have passigos or sort of cloisters, arched on the street side and the stores, etc. on the other. This city has mostly very old buildings. The public buildings are huge, of red brick and very ugly. Even some of the churches are this way. There is such a church in the center of town, huge and plain. Inside the church is simple and this mammoth size and height dwarf you to nothing. In one street are two very tall square towers. One is intact, but the other is torn halfway down for the foundation has settled and it is several feet out of line. The city is in a process of rejuvenation and lots of tearing down is going on. Beautiful new structures are going up and with the same style passigos as before. Many of the show windows and stores are very fine. It has tried hard to rain all day and is now drizzling. I have a nice room for 11.10l or 58¢ in a good hotel and here I stay till it clears. About 75 from Florence and 250 to Rome and I think the hills start tomorrow. Spent $1.17 today. Rode 110 miles today.

Firenze, Italy

Thursday, October 25, 1928

Last night I lay down on the bed for a moment, but didn’t come to till 7AM. The weather was very discouraging, a very fine drizzle falling. I started out, however, and hit the hills at the edge of town. Soon I came to one where I went up and up into a mist. This increased as the road went up for miles. I could see but a few yards away, but I knew I was getting high up from the deep ravines and gorges the road went over. It wound around the hills like a serpent, always up. The road was one big soupy mud-puddle and full of stones. By 12:30, five hours, I had gone but 33 miles, at least 22 of it being up mostly steep grades. The mist was a fine drizzle and wading through mud for miles pushing a bike till you thought your back would surely break is no fun. Then suddenly I came to the top of a hill and all in front was suddenly clear. I was on the top of a large mountain, entirely surrounded by other large rugged mountains. It was a marvelous sight. The clouds were low and covered the higher peaks. I had been riding in the clouds for 4 hours. The valleys stretched out between the mountains and the houses were mere dots. Here the road was dry, but poor, being very bumpy and full of sharp crushed rock.

Soon after, I stopped at a small country restaurant and had a large heaping plate of delicious spaghetti (called macaroni here), all for 1.50l or 8¢. Now I had more downgrade, but could not take advantage of it because of the poor road and my well-worn tires. In spite of my caution, I had to go run over a tack and get a flat. A garage-man fixed it for me free and a mile farther on it again went flat. I took it off to fix it but finally found it was a valve leak so fixed it OK. My pump is n.g. and I walked a mile to a garage. At dark I was still several miles from Florence, but didn’t care as the afternoon had been good and there was a wonderful moon over the mountains. Soon I saw the lights of the city in the valley and coming down a 6-mile hill entered the city. Have a room for 68¢. The streets are crowded here tonight. Bet I sweated off at least 5 lbs. today.

This was lots harder than any other mountain range. If these keep up till Rome, I’ll never get there. I’ll recuperate here a day before going on. Rode 69 miles and spent 99¢ today. Have gone 9,710 miles from Chicago in 15 weeks and 3 days, 4,133.1 of it on my bike. Am in fine health, tired but ambitious.


Firenze, Italia

Vendredi, Octobre 26, 1928

[If you don’t read French, skip along to December 6, 1928—Nice, France, where Hall gives it up until he reaches Saigon on August 5, 1929. Apologies for any transcription errors—French is no fun to type. Kudos to Hall for doing so well with it!]

Ce matin je me suis levé à huit heures et me suis habillé encore comme un homme blanc. Alors je me avis promenadé autour de la ville avec mon appareil. Près de l’hôtel est une muy grande église, S. Maria del Fiore. C’est d’une architecture Renaissance Italien avec beaucoups des desseins fantaisies sur l’extérieur. C’est dans la forme d’une croix avec un grand dôme à l’intersection. À un coin est debout une tour haute de la même dessein. Dans l’interieur toute est simple; les deux rangs des piliers, les arches hautes et la vastesse sont muy frappant. Plusieur’s des autres églises dans la ville sont de la même dessein et style. Traversant la Fiume Arno, je suis ascendu une grande colline à la Piazzale Michelangiolo de qu’on peut obtenir un vue merveilleux de Firenze, de la rivière et de les montagnes dans la distance.

Cet après-midi je me suis promenadé atours des rues. Elles sont trés intéressantes.

Beaucoup des édifices sont de la architecture des ceux en Bologna avec les clôitres sur les contre-allées. Les rues étroites contenissent une multitude des petites, beaucoup des que sont magasins antiques. Souvent les marchandises reposent sur des tables devant de les magasins. Les rues se pressent avec tous sortes des peuples.

Le temps a fait du soleil et a fait chaud. On parle francais beaucoup en l’Italie. J’ai dépensé aujourd’hui 94¢ + 69¢ pour deux couches = $1.63.

Roma, Italia

Dimanche, Octobre 28, 1928

Samedi a six heures du matin j’ai tout partir mais mon pneu était plat. Je l’ai tenté fixer mais c’était impossible. Il a pleut, donc j’ai prendu le train à Roma. Une muy grande femme a amusée les peuples par son avis aux soldats et depuis plus tard par son ronflement. La campagne au travers de l’Italie est trés belle. Le train a tourné autour des collines. Les nuages sombres suspendraient sur les chaînes des montagnes isolés. Il y avait beaucoups des petits villages ancien et des ruines des châteaux vieux se perchaient hauts sur les falaises. Nous sommes arrivés à Roma après six heures. Je suis allé au American Express Co. pour ma dépêche et depuis j’ai trouvé une chambre dans l’Hôtel Colonna pour L14 ou 74¢. Je m’avis promenadé autour de la ville pour une heure et demi avant de ténèbres.

Aujourd’hui, aprés un grand déjeuner, je suis allé à Masse Haute à St. Pierre. Le beauté de l’intérieur de l’église ne peut pas se describer. On s’accable par le grandeur, la dimension. Le tombeau de Pierre l’Apôtre est muy intéressant et muy beau. C’est sous le dôme énorme. Le Vatican est trés frappant. Le Colosseum, le Foro Roman, le Chateau Sant’Angelo, la Colline Palatine, le Foro Augustus, le Foro des Trajans et la Arche de Constitine vous portent aux jours de Roma ancien. Les ruines sont le plus intéressants. Le grand monument magnifique à Roi Victor Emmanuel ne peut pas se surpasser. Là aussi est le tombeau du soldat incognito.

Le soir se sont passé par écrivant cinq lettres. Samedi j’ai dépensé $1.25 et $4.24 pour le train et mon vélo. Aujourd’hui, $1.41.

Roma, Italia

Mardi, Octobre 30, 1928

Hier il a pleut tout le jour. J’ai porté mes souliers se fixer et mes pantalon se nettoyer. Après-midi j’ai lut de rhétorique français et a écrit une lettre à Oncle Billy Graves. Depuis je me suis promenadé vers deux heures. Il y a un très beau parc sur la colline près de la Piazza del Popolo. J’ai dépensé $1.43.

Aujourd’hui il a pleut dans le matin mais a fait beau aprés-midi. J’ai visité le Vatican. Première j’ai regardé le Galerie des Peintures. Là j’ai vu beaucoups des peintures fameuse, entre ceux Couronnement de la Vierge, Madone di Foligno, et le mielleur de tout, Transfiguration par Raphael Santi. Alors j’ai visité la muy belle bibliothèque, les Vaticans Galeries Sculptures, la Chapelle Sistine òu j’ai trouvé une collection merveilleux des fresques par Michelangelo et ses pupilles. Les Stances de Raphael et la Chapelle de Beato Angelica étaient magnifique. Le Gloire de Eucharist et L’École de Athènes par Raphael, dans les Stances, et Le Châtiment Dernier par Michelangelo dans la Chapelle Sistine sont muy fameux.

Aprés un grand lunch de spaghetti, j’ai prendu une photographie dans l’église de St. Pierre. C’est un défense et j’us être très attentif. Depuis j’ai prendu des photographiques de le Foro Romano, le Colosseo, et la Arche de Constitine. Ces sont muy intéressant.

Aujourd’hui j’ai dépensé pour tout, compris deux couches et mes souliers, $3.25. Ce soir j’ai blanchi beaucoups vetêments et ma vareuse qu’est rassasiés de trous.

Roma, Italie

Mercredi, Octobre 31, 1928

Ce matin je suis allé a la gare pour mon vélo. Apres le pnèu s’est fixé, je suis allé au Anfiteatro Flavio et alors à la Via Appia Antica. Il y a commencé pleuvoir. À moitié chemin à Albanc sur la Via Appìa Nuovo, je me suis arrêté, ai prendu une photographique des ”aquaducts” et retournai a la ville par là Tomba di Cecilia Metella, la Catacombes, la Arche de Druso, la Porto Sebastiano dans les Murs Aurelians, l’église Domine Quo Vadis et le Circo Massimo. Encore ambitieux et malgrè la pluie, je suis allé voir le Piramide di Cajo Cestio, (Caius Caestius) et les tombeaux des Shelley et Keats. Ces dernières sont muy solennel, surtout celui de Keats. Sur son pierre tumulaire s’est écrit—Ici repose tout qu’était humain d’un Jeun Poète Anglais—Keats—qui sur sa lit de mort dans l’amerturne de sa haine de ses ennemis a voulu que ces mots se placer sur son tombeau. Ici on repose le nom de qui s’est écrit dans d’eau.

Bientôt il y a une averse terrible et avant j’ai gagné l’hôtel je me suis trempé. Il a pleut tout l’aprés-midi et pleut maintenant. La Tibre s’est crué près de dix métrès dans le jour passé et elle crue rapidement maintenant. J’ai étudié français quelques heures et ai blanchi plus des vêtements. Aujourd’hui j’ai dépensé $1.67 et 76¢ pour ce journal, 63¢ pour mes pantalon et 69¢ pour deux couches. Le total est $3.75.

Subiaco, Italie

Vendredi, Novembre 2, 1928

Jeudi je n’ai fait beaucoup de rien. Je suis promenadé en le beau parc sur la Colline Pinico, pleusieurs des heures et y en ai lut de la rhétorique français. Après la pluie dans le matin, c’était un jour excellant. Tous mes vêtements ont étés blanchi et apres avoir coudunt les trous, j’étais prêt à partir à Napoli. J’ai dépensé aujourd’hui $.95.

Aujourd’hui à sept j’ai trouvé que mon pneu dernière était plat. Après avoir cherché longtemps pour un atelier, il a commencé à pleuvoir. Quand celle s’était arrête j’ai acheté un pneu et ai trouvé enfin un atelier ou on l’a fixé pour moi. Je suis allé au American Express Co. pour ma dépêche et y ai trouvé trois lettres pour moi.

Retournant à mon velo j’enchantais à voir que mon pneu nouveau était plat. Quand il a été fixé, j’ai tenté pour une heure à partir de la ville mais tout le monde m’ont dit aller une direction divers. Je suis enfin retourné au American Express Co. pour des directions ecrit et ce fois, aprés me perdant quelques moments, je suis parti de Roma.

J’avais décidé de suivre la route scénique à Naples mais le chemin n’était pas toujours facile de trouver. Les grandes montagnes étaient très difficile escalader et par ténèbres j’avais encore treize milles aller. J’escaladais une grande montagne sur un chemin serpentin quand mon pneu devant eut un crevasion. J’étais très insensé mais bientôt ai vu la côté drôle. La promenade était muy charmante et interessant. Les montagnes étaient très noir et le ciel était plein des étoiles. Quand j’ai gagné le sommet de la montagne, je puis voir les lumières de beaucoups des villages hauts sur les montagnes en toutes directions. Il y avait du muy beau éclair mais i1 ne plu pas et mes treize milles ont passé rapidement. J’ai dépensé $2.12 pour tout.

Frosinone, Italy

Samedi, Novembre 3, 1928

Le temps a fait vrai à forme et il a plu ce matin. Quand il s’était arrêté et mon pneu a été fixé, je suis parti de Subiaco et ai commencé à ascendir les montagnes. Beaucoup du chemin était terrible. Depuis dix-sept milles, j’ai gagné le sommet. Le vent fort a soufflé un orage en ma direction et il a fallu que je reste dans une petite caverne dans la côté de la falaise pour une heure. La pluie s’est arrêté enfin quelques moments et je suis allé à un petit village. Après longtemps dans un magasin, je suis parti en une petite pluie et suis arrivé à Frosinone en une heure. Mes souliers et mes chaussettes étaient trés mouillées. Cette petite ville est debout sur le haut d’une colline haute et s’entoure des montagnes grandes. Aujourd’hui j’ai dépensé $1.02 et suis venu 35 milles.

Naples, Italie

Dimanche, Novembre 4, 1928

Ce matin je suis parti à sept. Le lever du soleil sur les montagnes était superbe. Il a fait les nuages un couleur rose et une entier montagne rang un rouge terne. Par onze, avoir allé quarante milles, je me suis arrêté pour lunch en Cassino, une petite ville dans les montagnes. Il y a un chateau vieux sur une colline pierrement et un grand monastère haut sur une autre colline. Aprés avoir mangé un grand ordre de spaghetti, j’étais prêt à partir, mais des nuages sombres étaient dans le ceil et je décidai prendre le train à Naples. C’était une muy belle tournée et montagneux toute la route. J’arrivai à Naples à six. Aprés avoir procuré une chambre a l’Hôtel Boston, je me suis promenadé pour une heure. Je croix que j’aimerai Naples. Je n’aime pas ma chambre et demain j’irai à un autre hôtel. Il a été plu ici. Comme le train quitta Cassino, il a fait pleuvoir mais nous la sommes épuisés. Cette rue est plein des amusements et un troupe fait un grand fracas, pour la plupart le tambour. Aujourd’hui j’ai dépensé $2.61 le train compris.

Sur le Florio voilant à la Sicile

Lundi, Novembre 5, 1928

Dernière nuit quand j’étais pret à me coucher, j’ai vu des punaises dans le lit. J’encaissai immédiatement mes vêtements et ai fait sortie de l’hôtel. Je refusai à payer pour la chambre et eûs un grand argument avec le propriétaire, le portier et un autre homme. Ils ont appelé un soldat mais j’ai refusé encore à payer. Enfin quand j’étais fatigue de l’argument, je suis sorti et passai la nuit en le restaurant de la gare.

Aujourd’hui il a plu dans le matin si j’ai décidé aller à Sicile cette nuit. Toute le jour je me suis promenadé autour de la ville. Naples lui-même est attrayant mais c’est la mise qui a fait la ville très belle. La baie avec le Vésuve sur le rivage opposé et en la entrée de la baie l’île Capri avec sa Grotte Bleu plus célèbre. En la ville il y a un muy beau parc plein des palmiers. Il y a aussi un aquarium fameux. Le muséum n’est pas imposant mais est très célèbre. L’Opéra San Carlo est une grande édifice comme est le Palais Royal de Naples.

J’avais un billet troisième classe. Il’y ai recontré un garçon américain, Geo. Nakashima, qui demeure à Seattle et étudie l’architecture. Nous avons passé une nuit sans repos sur le pont parce que l’apparence des lits était terrible. [Wow, click on those links.]

Palerme, Sicile

Mardi, Novembre 6, 1928

Nous sommes arrivés a Palerme à huit heure et demi. Avant d’arriver, le soleil a ascendu de l’eau bleu de la Méditerranée en une grande balle de feu rouge, donnant les nuages une tiente à beaucoups des couleurs. Les grandes montagnes de la Sicile ont paru en la distance, croyant plus grandes rapidementes. Bientôt nous sommes entrés dans le havre et voilà resta la belle Palerme dans une amphitéâtre des montagnes.

Quand j’avais trouvé un très bon hôtel, Le Panormus, George et moi nous sommes promenadés autour de la ville, visitant la cathédrale intéressante. Alors après manger de spaghetti nous avons courru pour le bateau et quelques moments après, il a fait voile à la Tunisie.

J’ai senti très délaissé pour quelques moments après, mais ce ne puis pas durer pour il y a Monte Pellegrino à escalader. La longue allée était très escarpé et a serpenté en amont a la ronde des pierres et à travers du ”cactus.”  L’allée n’est pas allée au sommet si je l’ai quitté et escaladai sur les côtes pierrement au haut. Je n’ai rien vu un vue si marveilleux. Palerme était debout dans la vallée loin au-dessous, entouré des montagnes. La plus belle Méditerranée a posé au pied. Loin dans la distance on peut voir le feu ascendant du Monte Etna. Ce soir je me couche à huit heures.

Palerme, Sicilie

Mercredi, Novembre 7, 1928

Aprés avoir blanchir des vênements, je suis sorti a Monreale. C’est a côté d’une montagne près de cinq milles de l’hôtel. Je m’y suis marché. Il y a une cathédrale muy fameux dans le village. C’est une des meilleurs édifices du moyen âge. La mosaic, les cloîtures, la grande porte airain et le jardin sont muy célèbres. Le vue vers Palerme est merveilleux. C’était ténèbres quand je retournai à la ville. Je pensais à partir le lendemain mais ai décidé enfin à visiter un Grec Temple à Segesta.

Aujourd’hui j’ai dépensé $1.39 tout compris.

Segesta, Sicile

Jeudi, Novembre 8, 1928

À neuf heures et demi je suis sorti de Palerme sur le train et aprés un beau voyage entre les montagnes, les champs des oliviers, des orangers, des citronniers et au long les rivages be la belle Méditerranée bleu, nous sommes arrivées à un petit village de que il faut marcher huit milles. Segesta était une grande ville il y a plusieurs des siecles mais leur ennemies enfin la détrui en 600 B.C. Tout qui demure de la une fois ville puissante est un Temple Grec, majestieux, simple dans le contour mais très frappant; un reste d’une âgé passé. Sur une colline près est debout un tèâtre vieux, commandant un vue grand et merveilleux. Loin au-dessous dans le vallée murmure la Rivière Gaggera. C’était ténèbres quand je suis encore arrivé a la gare. En Palermo à neuf heures et demi, je me suis promenadé un peu avant de retourner à l’hôtel. Ce jour— $4.05 tout compris.

Palerme, Sicile

Vendredi, Novembre 9, 1928

Après avoir coudre les trous et emballer mes vêtements, je me suis promenadé dans la place du marché. Les rues étroits et courbé, la presse des peuples et la fracas sont muy intéressantes. La pluspart des peuples sont dans pauvreté et il y a beaucoups des mendiants. Les montagnards sont très ignorant et demeurent dans les plus mauvaises conditions. Il travaillent tout le jour de lumières de jour jusqu’a ténèbres, mangeant un piece du pain à midi. Alors ils se couchent avec les âves et les autres animeaux.

Palerme est une très belle ville avec beaucoups des édifices modernes et les parcs des palmiers. Il y a un bonne atmosphère dans la ville. Après avoir ecrir des lettres après-midi a l’hôtel, je suis allé au bateau. Ce n’est pas le même, mais un bateau plus meiller que l’autre. Nous sommes partis à sept heures au milieu de beaucoups des au revoirs. C’est maintenant cinq et demi. La nuit est belle. Les étoiles brillent mais il n’y a pas une lune. Je regardais le mer pour deux heures et alors a écrit dans mon journal. Cette nuit est sans repos. Nous arriverons à Naples vers huit heures et demi. Ce jour j’ai dépensé $2.12 tout compris.

[A couple days after Hall left Sicily Mt. Etna had a major eruption that he regretted not seeing up close.]

Rome, Italie

Samedi, Novembre 10, 1928

Jusqua avant de la lumière de jour, la lune est vini des nuages et était muy belle. Il y en avait seulement une petite tranche et celle au fond. On peut voir bien, la autre partie. Après la aurore nous sommes passés Capri et en quelque moments le Vesuve. Le fu blanc ascendait lentement de son cratère. Encore à Naples, il pleuvait si je prennai le train à Rome, y arrivant à quatre heures et demi. Au American Express Co. je trouvai une lettre de Harry Fitzgerald. Alors je pris ma chambre a l’Hôtel Colonna. Après dîner, j’expédiai vingt-deux des couches chez moi. Aujourd’hui j’ai dépensé $5.96 tout compris.

Orbetello, Italie

Dimanche, Novembre 11, 1928

Ce matin je quittai l’hôtel à sept heures et eûs un temps difficile à partir de la ville. Le chemin allait à travers des collines et suivait la rivage de la Méditerranée beaucoup de la distance. Le mer bleu était le plus superb et les collines doux penchant ajoutaient à la beautée. Le jour était parfait, quère un nuage dans le ceil. Il y avait beaucoup des navires des voiles sur l’eau. La mauvais partie était que le chemin pour la plupart n’était pas bon. Après avoir voyager 91 milles, mon pneu nouvel eût un cravaison et il fallait marcher sept milles à Orbetello ou j’ai trouvé un bon hôtel pour six lira et un grand dîner avec deux assiettes de spaghetti et quatre petits pain pour L4.80. Ce jour j’ai dépensé 81¢.

Grosseto, Italie

Lundi, Novembre 12, 1928

Quittant Orbetello à six heures, j’étais allé dix milles quand encore mon pneu nouvel était plat. Ce fois il a fallu que je marcher dix-huit milles. Le vent était plus fort, et j’étais très fatigué et avais bien faim quand j’arrivai enfin à Grosseto à midi.

J ‘achetai un pneu nouvel et prennai une bonne chambre dans le meilleur hôtel de la mille, l’Hôtel Bastiani. Le chemin est térrible dans beaucoups des places. Je voyagai aujourd’hui vingt-huit milles et ai dépensé $2.16.

Gènes, Italie

Vendredi, Novembre 16, 1928

Mardi j’allai de Grosetto à Pisa. Le voyage était sans du trouble et je suis arrivé à quatre heures et demi. Le Tour Inclinant était muy intéressant. Près de lui est debout une grande église et une bascille de la même architecture— $1.10.

Mercredi était un autre jour grand et cette nuit j’ai resté à La Spezzia, 54 milles de Pisa. C’est une ville attractive. Il y a un havre superb et c’est usé comme une base naval—$1.15.

Jeudi le chemin était très montagneux. Il a fait froid en les montagnes au matin et après-midi il a fait nuageuse. Les montagnes était très belles. Enfin la route est venue près du mer. Regardant au côté du mer j’ai pu voir les petits villages dans les vallées et sur le rivage. Ou bien encore il y avait des vaisseaux loin au distance. En principe le chemin était meilleur que ordinaire. La Rivière d’Est est très charmante. Dans tous les sens on a pu voir beaucoups des villas se nichées au côté des collines escarpées et terracées. On les sont cernées des jardins beaux et des vignes. La vue du mer et du rivage de ces villas est merveilleux. Dans n’importe quelle direction le long du rivage, on peut voir ces villas attractives et des hôtels superbs. Après avoir arrivé a Gènes, je suis allé au American Express Co. pour ma dépêche. Alors, j’ai trouvé une chambre dans 1’Hôtel Royal Aquila près de la gare.

La chambre est trés bizarre. La baignoire est debout à côté du lit. Je me suis promenadé avant de me retirant. $1.45—72 milles.

Ce matin je me suis mettu en marche pour voir la ville. Le port, les rues étroites et les rues grandes sont très fascinantes. Le maison de Colomb en la coeur de la ville est une curiositée. — Le fait est que j’ai la fièvre pour voir les montagnes de la Suisse et quelconques je fais il faut que je vais en la Suisse sans aucun temps mort. Je sais que je m’y gelerai mais je recourrirai à pas gymnastique comme moyens de retenant chaud.

Ainsi demain je vais partir à Turino sur le train. —$1.42— Je sens mal ce soir pour la première fois.

Torino, Italie

Dimanche, Novembre 18, 1928

Toute Vendredi nuit j’étais misérablement malade et n’y pouvais rien dormir. En outre j’avais la fièvre, une migraine, et des froids. Néanmoins le lendemain je suis parti à dix heures moins vingt sur le train à Torino. Pendant la première heure nous sommes passés par vingt-deux souterrains. Alors la région a devenu plat toute la distance à Torino. Juste avant d’entrer en Torino, les grandes montagnes a figuré, les sommets couvri de la neige. Je me suis promenadé un peu mais étais très faible. Torino est très belle. De droite sont des grandes collines et de gauche sont les montagnes superbes. Une rivière coule au travers d’un parc très attractif. Les rues sont très larges avec deux parcs dans eux. Dans ces parcs sont des grandes arbes. Il y a beaucoups des monuments et sur les trottoirs des cloîtres. Les fenêtres des magasins sont muy intéressantes et beaucoupes sont très attractives. Le Stadium tiene 16,000 peuple et possíde un vue étonnant des montagnes. Cet après-midi et ce soir les rues se pressaient des peuples. Tout le monde marchent dans les rues. Je passai de temps dans un amusement parc ce soir et c’était drôle. Le temps fait beau et ne fait pas froid. Demain à sept heures vingt-cinq du matin je vais partir à Genève. Aujourd’hui j’ai dépensé $1.48. Je me porte mieux maintenant.

Genève, la Suisse

Mercredi, Novembre 21, 1928

Lundi je partis sur le train à Torino. La premiere heure je comptai vingt tunnels. La region est très montagneux et beaucoupes des montagnes ont de la neige sur les sommets. Nous passâmes le plus du jour en la France. Je n’ai pas pu manger car j’eus seulement de l’argent de la Suisse et d’Italie. Il a fallu que je change des trains a Culox mais je n’ai pas su celui. Ainsi je continuai sur le train mauvais pour quelques milles, allant vers Paris. Il a fallu que je retourne et quand j’arrivai afin à Genève, c’était neuf heures de la nuit et j’avais été sur le train treize heures et demi. J’ai dépensé $4.14.

Mardi et aujourd’hui je suis promenadé dans touts les sens. Genève est une grande ville, vers 150,000 peuples. [Metro area had 1,240,000 in 2009.] Est une ville parfaite. De l’ouest sont des grandes montagnes et de 1’est la plus haute et la plus belle du Alps, Mont Blanc. Entourant de ce gèant niegeux sont beaucoups des autres. Le coup d’oeil est magnifique. Lac Genève est superb et on peut voir le fond facilement en vingt mètres de l’eau. La Rhône aussi est muy claire. La édifice de la Sociéte des Nations, la Quai Wilson, le monument Reformacion, le Bureau du International Travailler et beaucoupes d’autres choses, toute sont trés intéressantes, trés belles.

Les rues sur le rivage du lac sont étounnautes. La ville est muy propre. On y parle français mais beaucoup des peuples parle anglais aussi et il me semble comme une ville americane. Demain je rendrai mes devoirs à Lusanne. Si je reste en la Suisse plus long, je tirerais le diable par la queue. Mais qu’est-ce que cela me fait? Cela ne fait rien. A Dieu ne plaise!! Hier $4.10; aujourd’hui $1.20.

Lucerne, la Suisse

Lundi, Novembre 26, 1928

Jeudi je suis arrivé à Lausanne au matin et après avoir trouvé un hôtel, a fait marcher autour de la ville, notament en les faubergs où on trouve beaucoup des maisons belles entre les collines. On y peut voir aussi le Lac Genève et les montagnes sur l’autre côté, vraiment une coup d’oeil le plus magnifique. La ville se bâtit sur plusieurs des collines sur le rivage du Lac Genève. C’est trés attractive. $3.02.

Le lendemain j’ai parti à Bern y arrivant à dix heures du matin. Le temps a fait mauvais et il bruina tout le jour. Néanmoins cela ne m’arrêta pas. Bern est trés intéressant. Elle se bâti sur une courbure de la rivière qui a coupé une cannelure profunde pour eut. Beaucoup des trottoirs s’ont couvert des cloîtres. En Bern on parlent l’allemand pour la pluparte. Ainsi, pour la visite au Parlement, j’eus un guide qui parlait l’allemand. —$6.02.

Samedi à neuf heures moins quinze, j’ai parti à lnterlaken. La route a suivie le rivage du beau Lac Thoun. À dix heures nous sommes arrivés et avec deux heures et demi avant de moi, je m’ai mis à marcher pour voir la ville. lnterlaken reste entre deux beaux lacs, Lac Thoun et Lac Breinz, tous les deux entourés des grandes montagnes. Aux autres deux côtés sont des hautes montagnes, couvert de neige. J’ai manqué mon train parce-que j’allais à la mauvaise gare. Cela m’ai donné trois heures plus. Depuis une heure, j’ai décidé monter une montagne. Comme le chemin de fer au sommet s’a fermé, it a fallu la monter à pied. Avec ne pas aucun moment éspargner je ne pouvais pas m’arrêter pour me reposer. Depuis cinquante-cinq minutes j’ai achevé le sommet. Le coup d’oeil était magnifique—les deux lacs, les montagnes superbes, la grande Jungfrau au midi et Interlaken près de 1,000 metres au dessous. La ligne de neige était loin au dessous de moi et il neigeait. Le sentier au fond à suivi au travers des forêts des grands pins. — Nous avons suivi le rivage de Lac Breinz à la éxtremité. Alors le train a monté une montagne haute 1,000 metres. Je puis voir la ville dans la vallée loin au dessous et après ténèbres les lumières. À sept heures et demi nous sommes arrivés à Lucern. —$2.51.

Hier et adjourd’hui il a bruina presque tout le jour. Le lac et les montagnes l’entourantes sont très belles. La ville est intéressante avec les rues étroites et beaucoup des édifices se sent fardées des images bizarre. Le temps fait trés froid et il neige sur les montagnes. Demain je partirai à Zurich. —$ 0.90—$2.17.

Zurich, Switzerland to Milan, Italy

Tuesday, November 27, 1928

I took a train to Zurich, arriving there at 10AM. The day was drizzly and cold. I walked around till I was cold and then returned to find a cold room. At one I decided I had seen enough of Zurich, so putting my suitcase under my slicker, I innocently walked out of the hotel and was soon on a train bound for Milano. Tough on hotel profits. As we left the city it had begun to snow and by the time we had reached St. Gotthard Pass, that long tunnel (7 or 8 miles) under the mountains, there were 4 or 6 inches of snow on the ground, making the scenery even more lovely. That ride through the Alps down the narrow winding valleys, by the side of leaping torrents, and finally into milder Italy, was a rare treat. Night fell before we reached Lake Como. As we passed it, high up above its level, the moon rose over the high hills and made a bright silver path across the lake. The snowy mountains glistened in the moonlight and the opposite shore and up the side of the hill added beauty to the scene.

At Lugano a huge crowd was cheering some person who got in the car ahead of me. At each station a huge crowd would always be waiting to cheer him. The people were very excited. Not to be left out, between two stations when the battle to be near him had subsided a bit, I asked him to sign my passport which he did. A young man, nice looking, with a sense of humor. I cannot read his signature, but later found out that he was returning from the North Pole, an Italian. $6.88.

Milan, Italy

Wednesday, November 28, 1928

This was a day of sightseeing in Milano. I was somewhat disappointed with the city, perhaps because I had heard so much of it and was expecting too much. It suffers in comparison to Torino. Of course, it is very much larger, though. There are a number of pretty sections, though, and parks. The old Castle Sforzeseo with its several courts is interesting as is the arch seen from the castle at the end of a pretty park. To me the most impressive thing is the marvelous cathedral, a maze of artistic stone work, small spires, and strange figures. Inside all is simple, but the vastness, the great high pillars, the solemnity, are all overwhelming. The large arcade named after Victtorio Emmanuel II is interesting as are the many small narrow streets in a nearby section. The city is not as clean and well kept though as Torino. $1.84.

Genoa, Italy

Thursday, November 29, 1928

This was Thanksgiving and a busy day for me. I took the morning train back to Genova, arriving there at noon. Getting my same room back, with the bathtub alongside the bed, I fell to on my many dirty clothes and soon the room looked like Lizzie’s backyard. My new system of washing shirts and letting the packing do the pressing I think is a very good one—at least cheap. Then I sent a package to Rudd in which was his Xmas present, a tiny revolver that shoots blanks, and 8 more rolls of films to be developed. I guess he’ll raise the roof for a while now. After dinner I cleaned my bike and turned in at eleven.

My two meals Thanksgiving consisted of two bowls of soup, two plates of spaghetti, and a piece of chocolate. — $4.54.

Sanremo, Italy

Friday, November 30, 1928

I was off shortly after seven and rode to San Remos [Sanremo], a distance of 95 miles. The scenery was very beautiful along the Italian Riviera, many bays, small resort towns very picturesque with their light-colored buildings standing out in sharp contrast to the dark towering hills. The road followed the coast and was not so bad at all. Once I took a horseshoe turn too fast and Scotsy and I parted, I going over the handle-bars and doing a few trick flops in the road. Sanremo is a favorite on the Italian Riviera and a beautiful town—supposedly very gay. $1.16.

Monaco and French Riviera

Saturday, December 1, 1928

I soon came to the border and crossed into France. Menton is a charming resort on the Cote d’Azur. A short distance farther on is Monte Carlo and by it Monaco high on a projecting arm of land. Monte Carlo can justly claim to be the most beautiful and best kept town on the Rivière. Everything is pretty and attractive there. The Casino is very elaborate and has a beautiful garden in front with perfect walks all about it. The scenery here is the most beautiful of anywhere along the Rivière. The high hills with steep cliffs at the tops, the beautiful bay, etc. make an irresistible charm. Monaco has many narrow passageways and is more quaint. A few miles on and we come to Nice. It too is very beautiful. The Quai États-Unis and the Promenade Anglais, both along the shore, are very pleasant. Then, the boulevard is lined with beautiful hotels. The Jeté Casino built out over the water is a fine one and at night is lit up attractively.

Boats for Corsica leave only on certain days and so I had to leave the same night on the General Bonaparte, and really a second-class passenger. I took only a camera with me. At eight we sailed and once out of the harbor the lights all along the Rivière were very pretty as was a large moon that rapidly rose from the dark sea. — $3.82.

Ajaccio, Corsica

Sunday, December 2, 1928

At the inhuman hour of 5AM we docked at Bastia, Corsica‘s chief commercial center. I ”saw the town,” then spent a couple hours out on the breakwater watching the men fish and hunt clams or crabs. Going into town again I found things very different. Being Sunday, everybody turned on. The market square was crowded as were the streets. The town is small and for the most part dirty, having many narrow alleys, etc. At noon I took the speedy train for Ajaccio, 6¼ hours to go 100 miles. We raced along at 25 and 30, faster downhill, and were soon in the mountains of the interior. They are very beautiful, many rugged and snow-covered. Our one-lunged-sally proved her mettle as a hill climber but it was slow work. After passing Corte, it was all up for miles till we reached the snow line, then it was all down. Winding up the deep valleys beside the tumbling streams and winding around the mountains far up with many marvelous views was lots of fun—until it got cold at four. Then I got into a second-class car and rode in more comfort. We got to Ajaccio at 7:30PM. Here, too, the town was turned out 100%. —$2.67.

Sunday, December 2, I spent sightseeing. The noon train I had planned to take to Calvi to get my boat back to Nice I found did not make connections so I was stuck. Ajaccio has a certain charm about it. The one main drag nor the large public square on the bay nor anything else there is pretty, but still there is something. Maybe it is the surrounding mountains or the beautiful bay or the romantic side of which Corsica has plenty. Napoleon was born in Ajaccio. A large section of the town is slum district, narrow dirty streets, dirty kids playing about, and many disgusting sights. Yet it all seemed to fit in and make the picture complete. $1.97.

On boat headed for Marseille, France

Tuesday, December 4, 1928

I left for Marseille on the boat. It happened to be the worst and the slowest boat on the line and 2nd [class] was n.g. As we got outside the bay I could see Sardinia to the south. Dinner time rolled around and but ten people appeared at the table. The rest were sea-sick for the boat rolled a good bit on the swells. Cie. Froissiant know their stuff on saving money. They put the dining room in the poop under the deck where every movement of the ship is much magnified. Felt like one of the elevators that drop and then stop suddenly. Your gizzard goes to your shoes. It was a merry repast—at the start. But one by one they left, some in a hurry, some with more show of dignity. It was very plain that some didn’t reach the railing in time. By the end of the darned good dinner, only four of us remained. I was already full when I started and the parachute effect didn’t help any. Thus I ate très sparingly and only ventured a half a glass of wine. Our bunks were also in the poop and I suppose we traveled as far up and down as forward. Wasn’t so bad though, lying down. $3.85.